Jasper, Jellies and Jagger

Jasper was hot. Arriving mid afternoon we had seen the outside temperature soar to 33 degrees - that's pretty warm for the Rockies! Fortunately we had a cool basement apartment as our base for three nights and we were welcomed by one of our hosts Jelly (short for Angelica) who gave us helpful hints on hiking trails and places to eat. Also giving us a warm welcome was her 18 month old, bouncy golden retriever named Jagger. Inside we found a cosy studio and a large bowl of jelly beans.

First up was a visit to Coin Clean Laundry - a combination of a launderette and coffee shop. We had been travelling for about 2 weeks and needed clean clothes! After watching the tumble drier do its business we got some cakes from a bakery (Little Paws), visited the information centre and shopped for more healthier food from a supermarket so we were provisioned for our stay. Mrs B even saw a bear...

The Little Paws Bakery - Jasper

The next morning we headed to Maligne Lake and booked a mid morning cruise. It was quite hazy, a consequence of forest fires in British Columbia, but the lake was calm and we learnt a little about the early exploration of the area. Eventually we reached Spirit Island, a linked little island on the Lake and a place of significance for First Nation people but also popularised as a view by Kodak when they first introduced colour film. The lighting conditions didn't make for great photography opportunities but nonetheless there was a dramatic view of the upper end of Lake Maligne and it was a relaxing way to spend an hour or so.

Spirit Island, Lake Maligne

After our return journey a little hiking was in order - so we set off on a loop trail, taking our picnic lunch with us, and making enough noise as Mrs B. was convinced bears were lurking around every corner. The walk was peaceful (and uneventful) and we returned to the start without seeing anything more threatening than a squirrel.

Next up was a trip to the Maligne Canyon - a dramatic narrow canyon through which the Maligne River flows in a series of waterfalls. However our journey to the canyon was interrupted by a sighting of some larger wildlife - a small flock of wild bighorn sheep who came up onto the road in front of our car.

Sheep herding in the Rockies

After this pleasant delay we arrived at the canyon and started to hike down a trail, across a series of bridges, and by the side of some steep drops. In places the canyon drops 150 feet and is about 2 meters wide.

Maligne Canyon

Waterfall joining the Maligne River, Maligne Canyon

This was like entering a different world. One enclosed by rock and trees, with crystal clear and blue water flowing down waterfalls, into still pools all fed by an underground lake and water flow being increased as smaller waterfalls joined the main river.

Third Bridge, Maligne Canyon

The return hike was all uphill but was worth the effort to see how the flow of the river had created and was still shaping this landscape.

That evening we were back at our apartment, relaxing, when we heard whining and woofing noises outside. Opening the door we found Jagger - who had decided it was play time. He had brought his toy rabbit for a game of throw and tug. He was such a friendly dog - full of puppyish charm, so despite being tired I couldn't resist a game and giving him some fuss.

Jagger - holding firmly on to his toy rabbit.

Next morning we wanted to hike closer to Jasper so set off to park at the Fairmont Jasper Lodge hotel on the opposite side of the river. A loop walk took us around Lac du Beauvert, a green/blue lake next to the hotel. 

Lac du Beauvert

As we started our hike I caught sight of a large bird soaring over the lake and settling into a tree. As we carried on walking I saw it again, right at the top of a pine tree - a bald eagle, looking majestic. Never having seen a bald eagle before in the wild this was quite exciting!

A bald eagle!

I then persuaded Mrs B to extend our hike and detoured along the banks of the river to a look out point called Old Fort. It was a stiff 130 meter climb but the top (3805ft.) gave us panoramic views of Jasper township, the Athabasca River and the surrounding mountain ranges although everything was very hazy because of smoke in the atmosphere from the British Columbia wild fires. Completing the descent we returned to Lac du Beauvert, accompanied by birdsong, squirrels and we spotted a woodpecker. 

A short walk had been extended but thrown up more interesting views. There was time the next morning to take another stroll around Jasper town, which we'd liked. It wasn't too busy and had some street art and a sense of community.

After coffee and delicious breakfast muffins at the Little Paws Bakery it was time to hit the road. Our route would take us back along the Icefields Parkway, with the chance to stop and see things we'd had to skip on the way up, but with a long drive of 175 miles to complete to our penultimate destination, Canmore.