Yoho!

Skunk Cabbage Boardwalk. This sounds like something that might come out a random word generator. In fact its a short nature trail, just off Trans Canada Highway 1, and an important wetland area on the banks of the Columbia River. The skunk cabbage is a plant that gives off a pungent aroma in springtime and the area attracts migratory birds from central and south America. By late August the distinctive smells are fortunately not present, and most of the birds had presumably left Canada to return south. Nevertheless it made for a nice interlude on a long drive and gave an insight into the bio diversity of this part of Canada.

Skunk Cabbage Boardwalk

As we drove eastwards on Trans Canada Highway 1 mountain peaks surrounded us and we once again saw some of the forest fires that have affected British Columbia this summer. Glacier National Park and Rogers Pass were traversed until we arrived in the small town of Golden. After a unintended detour into an industrial estate we found the small traditional town centre and took a late lunch in a second hand bookshop called
Bacchus, that also had a small café. My toasted sandwich was eaten in a tiny corner squeezed between science fiction and travel writing. Our destination for the end of the day was a small settlement called Field about 35 miles from Golden (I had to assure Mrs B it wasn't a field), where we had a studio apartment booked. Our hosts had advised us that Field didn't have much in the way of shops - so suggested we stock up before we arrived. A walk around Golden and then a quick dash around their supermarket meant we were ready to set off again. 

Field turned out to be a lovely tiny settlement, surrounded by the peaks of the Yoho National Park and on the bank of the Kicking Horse River. The settlement was established to house workers building the Canadian Pacific Railway which also runs alongside and past this compact community. Just north of Field are the Spiral Tunnels, a major railway engineering project in the early 1900's. Trains travelling to the Pacific need to descend the 'Big Hill' at Kicking Horse Pass dropping 330 meters in 10 miles. The solution was spiral tunnels that corkscrew through the mountain sides to ease the decent of the heavy locomotives. Our brief stay in Field gave us a chance to see one of the modern and (very) long freight trains at a railway crossing. These trains stretch in excess of two miles in length. Needless to say waiting at a level crossing either in a car or on foot requires patience - but at least the scenery is distracting.

Our temporary home in Field

Field

Train Coming...

Train Going...

The next morning was colder but bright and sunny and we spent most of the day hiking. First up was a short hike to the Takakkaw Falls - which drop off a glacier and descend 991 feet to the Yoho River. Their drop is seven times the height of the Niagara Falls! The name comes from the Cree language and translates as 'it is magnificent'.

Takakkaw Falls

The views of the Yoho River and surrounding mountains were also impressive. It seemed the Yoho National Park did 'magnificent' whichever way we turned. 

Yoho National Park

Next up and just a short drive away was Emerald Lake - which must be the jewel in Yoho's crown. 

Emerald Lake

A hiking trail allowed us to circumnavigate the lake on foot, walking through pine forest, sub alpine meadows and all the time surrounded by majestic mountain scenery.

We got to see more wildlife - no bears - but chipmunks and squirrels who appeared remarkably untroubled by our presence. 

It was hard to leave Emerald Lake, the beauty had at times left us stuck for appropriate words to describe how this landscape was affecting us - but the nature of travel is there is always a new vista around the corner. Removing our hiking boots we stopped off briefly at 'Natural Bridge', a place where the Yoho River squeezes through a narrow gap and

turbulent waters erode the landscape. 

Natural Bridge, Yoho National Park

After a good few miles of hiking we returned to Field for a final night and treated ourselves to a meal at the 'Truffle Pigs Bistro'. Next day we were headed to the Banff National Park for more hiking and no doubt more spectacular scenery.